Stories in Wood - Custom Made Guitar Stands
We make high quality guitar stands and accessories, right here in Melbourne, Australia. Each stand has its own part of Australia embodied within; the beautiful hardwoods we use go hand in hand with those you will find in your guitar. As well as native Australian timbers, stands are also available in specialty hardwoods sourced from around the world. Our goal is to give you the best stand your guitar will ever see!
How long have you been using Gilly’s products and how did you first come across them? I've been using Gilly's oils for well over a year now. I had used a lot of different oil finishes from other manufacturers over the years with mixed success. Usually when I find a product I like, I'll stick to it from then on in, so not having been satisfied with what I was previously using, my eyes were always open for something new. That's when I came across Gilly's products at Timbecon, and decided to try them out. I'll also add that I like to get behind an Aussie brand whenever I get the opportunity, and noting that Gilly's has a strong family business ethos. It was a big plus.
Liam in his workshop
You mentioned you are using the Orange Oil. Could you please expand on why you like this product so much? Have you tried any others in our range? Absolutely, the Orange Oil is my go to for almost all of my day to day work. I'm very conscious about my health and safety when working, and using products on a daily basis can be problematic if they contain harsh chemicals or solvents. So I've always leaned toward the more natural finishes for wood, and the Gilly's Orange Oil is by far the best (and nicest smelling!) I have used. It's a no brainer when it comes to applying - as long as the prep work is done right, the orange oil can be applied with a clean cloth and wiped off with another. It really is that simple. In regards to other products, I've also used the Gilly's Pure Tung Oil, which is another great natural choice if you're looking for something which will dry really well and give some extra protection when needed. This is one which I like to keep on hand for certain jobs that are likely to see a little more wear and tear or direct handling.
Could you tell us about what you are working on right now and give us a step-by-step guide on how you are making it. Please include how you are using the particular Gilly’s product(s) that you have chosen for the project? Feel free to include other manufacturers' products that you use in the process. We love to hear about different techniques.
Here is a simplified process of a spotted gum guitar stand being made recently from scratch (pictures attached), with a focus on the finishing process.
1 - Marking out the blanks from a spotted gum board, using templates which keep things consistent and uniform when working in large numbers.
2 - Cutting out the blanks. We like to use a band saw and circular saw where possible to cut close to the lines of our template marks. This ensures we're left with just enough material for flush trimming in the next step. Wearing eye protection when cutting spotted gum is a big help, as spotted gum likes to chip and throw splinters.
3 - Routing the profiles of the base and stand. Now we've got our blanks cut, we reattach our templates and flush trim to the exact finish dimensions with the routers, using the inverted trim and round over bits.
4 - The base needs a strong joint to stay firmly together, so we utilise the sliding dovetail to give a beautiful looking joint, and one which will last a very long time.
5 - Rough sanding. The start of the finishing process. After all the work is done to get the stand built, now is time to focus and make sure all the machine marks are removed and the wood grain is free from any defects. I like to use an 80 - 120 grit sandpaper and hand sand here, as the guitar stands have multiple compound curves which are very hard to sand with machines.
6 - Finish sanding. Stepping up to a 240 - 320 grit paper, and using a soft backed sanding block, we sand along the grain, removing the scratch pattern from the previous grits. The quality of sanding done here will determine the final finish quality once complete - so take time and don't apply too much pressure or the paper will bind up.
7 - Engraving the logo is done before finishing with oil to ensure proper depth and clarity of the laser.
8 - Using a clean cloth, apply the Orange Oil liberally and rub into the timber grain gently. As simple as it sounds, the key here is to not be afraid of using too much oil - the wood will only take in as much as it can, so you can't overdo it! Pro tip - get some of those old cotton shirts from the cupboard and use them up, as long as they're clean they make great application pads.
9 - After a first coat, leave the finish to soak in for 5 - 10 minutes and reapply. Same process, remembering it's better to use a bit more than too little. End grain will soak up the oil like a sponge, so I like to give any end grain areas an extra couple of applications the following day. Once the final coat has soaked i for 5 - 10 minutes, grab another clean unused cloth and hand buff out the finish, taking off any excess oil and giving a silky smooth sheen.
10 - Finished Product. Leaving the project in a well ventilated area for a day or two doesn't hurt to help it dry out quickly. The finish should be perfectly smooth to the touch, if not you can always go back over it with 320 grit sandpaper again and give it another coat of orange oil.
The biggest advantage of an oil finish is the ability to reapply, sand back or touch up instantly without any witness marks. As long as the prep work is done right, the results will show!
Check out Liam's beautiful woodwork on his website - Stories in Wood
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